Silk Bomber by Burdastyle

I have run out of words today, so I am just re-printing my pattern review here.  The pattern is Burdastyle 07-2017-104.

Pattern Description: Blouson bomber jacket with a padded collar and a petersham trim along the zipper.

Pattern Sizing:This pattern was in tall sizes. I was looking up how much length to remove from the jacket to make it regular sized, when I realised that the pattern had a huge amount of ease built into it. So, based on my bust measurement, I sized down from 80 to 72. The difference in length between these sizes was about the amount of length I would have had to take out, so with the smaller size, I didn't need to make any length adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?They were okay.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like the idea of a very lightweight jacket that could even be worn as a blouse. The magazine had it styled with denim shorts at the beach and then in black and white for a more office appropriate look.

Fabric Used:My fabric is silk, with a lightweight crepe texture, from EmmaOneSock. The chunky zip is from Lincraft and the Ribbon trim is from Spotlight.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- sized down 2 sizes
- my jacket is unlined
- because it was not lined, I used French seams or felled seams throughout
- for the padded collar, the pattern had you roll up some wadding and insert it in the collar. I didn't trust this to work out, so I fused one side of my collar to a fusible wadding.
- the sleeves were too long so I took the cuffs off, shortened the sleeves and sewed the cuffs back on. I have had to shorten a few sleeve patterns lately, which is making me wonder if I have short arms. I never felt like I had short arms before, so the other possibility is that I like to sear my sleeves shorter than other people.

Mu chunky zip ended up all curvy. I'm not sure why, as I matched the length to the jacket before I sewed it in place, so it is unlike that I stretched the fabric as I sewed it. Maybe it is from the petersham ribbon? I think this is a common occurrence with chunky zips so I am not worrying about it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I don't think I need another one, but I would recommend this style to others. This pattern does have a huge amount of ease, so fabric choice will be critical to get a nice drape.

Conclusion: Something different for my wardrobe that I am looking forward to wearing.


Another Vogue 1247

It seemed a waste to do all those pattern alterations for just one top, so I made another Vogue 1247.

This time I chose a mystery silk that I picked up from the Fabric Store.  It had a very bouncy texture and was originally a bone white colour.  White doesn't look great on me, so all along I intended to dye it.  I was planning a pale peach top. 

Up until now, I have only used my silk dyes for small amounts of lingerie elastic and fabrics.  For this length of fabric, I decided I would get more even results by using the washing machine.  I can't pause the cycle on my machine, which means I can't control the amount of time the fabric sits in the dye. By the time I read the amounts of dye required per weight of fabric, I had already pre-soaked my fabric and was unable to weigh it.  I guessed at how much dye to use, then added a bit extra for good measure, and obviously added way too much.  Lucky I like this orange colour.

I didn't even attempt French seams on all these pattern pieces in this bouncy fabric.  I did go to the trouble of buying matching thread for the overlocker, so it still looks pretty neat on the inside.

I haven't actually worn this top out yet.  It doesn't feel as chic as my previous version, and I am yet to work out when to wear it, but as our hot summer ends, I'm sure it will find its place.


Hey June Santa Fe top

Likewise, I got a little carried away with the Hey June Santa Fe top.  Here are my first 4 versions.

View A

View B

View D

View E

I made a narrow chest adjustment on all but the grey top, which I sewed first.  

On the white and grey versions I didn't turn up a hem, but sewed a line of cover-stitching about an inch from the bottom as a finish, which I have seen on lightweight RTW tops.

My only issue with this pattern is that the armholes are too high for me, so I will need to lower them before my next burst of sewing Santa Fe tops.


Hey June Union St Tee

I fell down a rabbit hole with the Hey June Union St Tee.  If the PR wardrobe contest hadn't yanked me back out, I could still be down that hole, making tee after tee.  As it was, I made 4 in less than a fortnight.

My first one was a striped shirt with the scoop neckline.  I didn't realise that the scoop neckline on this pattern was lower than the scoop on the original pattern release.  This scoop is lower than I would have liked.  Easy enough to change though.  I used my coverstitch machine to put a binding on the neck, rather than use the neck band piece from the pattern.  I didn't make any alterations to this pattern, and the neckline gaped on me, so I had to take the binding off and reapply it by hand, shortening it a little to draw in the neckline.  This striped cotton fabric is probably a bit heavy weight for the shirt and would have been better used for a long sleeved tee.

My second tee was the same size (M) with the V-neck.  I used the binding piece from the pattern, and found it a bit short.  I have contemplated taking it off and sewing a new neckband on, but haven't got around to it yet.  It seems the shirt is forever in the wash, so maybe I will never get to it.  The fabric is a gorgeous colour, a purply sort of blue in a rayon, from EmmaOneSock.  My attempt at a narrow chest adjustment wasn't the best approach, and changes the hang of the front of the shirt.

For my third tee, I went for a slouchier look and tried a size up from my measurement, which made it an L.  This time I added about 2 inches to the neck band.  I tried a different narrow chest adjustment and was happy with the results.

For the 4th version, I was aiming for a vintage vibe with this slubby cotton knit.  The knit does not have great recovery.  I started with the L, used the narrow chest adjustment from the previous tee, shortened the sleeves and widened the neck band.  I added length to the neckband and basted it in place to see if the added length was right.  It took me several attempts to get the right length in this fabric.

I can see many more of these tees in my future, as I love the boxy shape and the slouchier look.


Burdastyle faux wrap skirt

I have been sewing up a storm for my entry to the PR wardrobe contest.  Not sure if I will get everything blogged individually, but here is the Burdastyle skirt I made.

The pattern is Burdastyle 07-2017-113.  The fabric is a heavy white denim, that I found in my cupboard and am unsure of the origins.  The hem bands are a grey linen, interfaced to match the weight of the denim.

The back of the skirt is plain.

My fabric was heavier than the fabrics listed for the pattern, so I swapped the invisible zip for a lapped zipper and button closure.

I stuck a sneaky pocket in between the front layers.  It it sort of like the coin pocket on men's trousers, only a bit bigger.

I haven't been wearing skirts much lately, but it is good to mix things up now and then.